Tibet's Heart in India: The Diminishing Tibetan Capital in Exile
High in the Indian mountains, the sound of boys and girls singing together in Tibetan fills the air. They are students in a classroom overlooking beautiful alpine forests. Nearby, other kids are practicing traditional Tibetan operas. Even during their break time, teenagers are seen playing basketball wearing traditional Tibetan shirts. This is a typical day at the Tibetan Children's Village, a school that has been the heart of Tibetan culture, language, and faith for many years in Dharamshala, the unofficial Tibetan capital in exile. However, the number of students in this school is dwindling, reflecting a similar trend in the Tibetan exile community.
The Shrinking Bucket
"Imagine it's like taking water out of a bucket," says a Tibetan poet and publisher living in the city, referring to the decreasing population. "With each jug of water you take out, the bucket becomes that much empty."
The Children's Village in Dharamshala was established in 1960 by the Dalai Lama and his sisters after they had to leave Tibet due to a failed uprising against Chinese rule. As thousands of Tibetans followed their spiritual leader into exile, the school expanded. Parents who had to work in remote, harsh areas like isolated Himalayan villages sent their children to this school to ensure they would grow up with a strong Tibetan identity.
The Exodus of Children from Tibet
Many Tibetan parents also secretly brought their children to India to be enrolled in the school. This includes a certain poet who was left in Dharamshala by his father when he was about 10 years old. He estimates that from 1980 to 2008, around 23,000 children left Tibet, making up a significant portion of the exiled community.
One such child was a Tibetan educator who, at the age of seven or eight, crossed the Himalayas in 1984. He recalls being carried by his father during their journey. He hasn't seen his father since that day, almost four decades ago. Despite this, he didn't feel abandoned because there were 'thousands' of kids just like him. They were like his 'brothers and sisters'. He considers the Children's Village his true home.
After finishing college, he became a teacher at the Children's Village. He and his wife, who was also raised there, look after the children after their school day ends. They help with homework and tuck them into bed. However, the school, which can accommodate 8,642 children across its seven Indian branches, currently only has 4,682 students enrolled. Classrooms are being consolidated or closed down due to the declining student population.
Fewer Tibetans, More Challenges
Even in Dharamshala, the largest branch of the Children's Village is winding down. The principal notes a significant drop in the number of younger children entering the system. This is partly due to the fact that Tibetans are having fewer children. The exiled Tibetan population in India was estimated to be just over 100,000 around 2010, but now it is believed to be around 70,000, with an additional 60,000 in Europe, North America, and Australia.
China's tightening of its borders in 2008 has made it even more difficult for Tibetans to reach India. Before the crackdown, a few hundred people were able to cross the border every year. Now, that number has dropped into the single digits.
The Future of the Tibetan Exile Community
Despite the challenges, the Tibetan community remains determined to survive. They face the reality of their dwindling numbers with resilience and continue to hope for a brighter future. The Dalai Lama, who turned 90 last year, has stated that his successor will be born outside of China. However, the Chinese government insists that only it has the authority to select the next Dalai Lama.
In the face of these challenges, the Tibetan community remains hopeful. Their mission is clear: to survive. As long as they can do that, they believe they will have their opportunities. This unwavering determination is the true strength of the shrinking Tibetan capital in exile.