Controlling the West Bank: The Unseen Ethnic Cleansing
The trip from Ramallah to Nablus in the occupied West Bank used to be a quick one-hour drive. Now, due to Israeli checkpoints, it can take up to half a day. One Friday morning, I found myself on a bus with students and young families, all heading to visit relatives for the weekend.
Highway 60: A Route of Discontent
We took a left turn onto Highway 60, which is a critical route that connects Hebron in the south to Jenin and Nazareth in the north. In the past, this highway was known as the "route of thieves". Today, the thieves are Israeli settlers who have claimed the land as their own. If Palestine were to become an independent state, Highway 60 would be a vital piece of national infrastructure. But now, every hundred meters or so, there is an Israeli flag.
The Rabbi's Followers
Occasionally, posters depicting a rabbi in a black coat and hat appear next to the flags. Rabbi Menachem Mendel Schneerson passed away three decades ago, but his supporters, many of whom are settlers, believe the historical land of Israel belongs to the Jews. They have placed his emblem, a blue crown against a yellow background atop a Hebrew word meaning "messiah", in Palestinian villages and at intersections. These followers firmly believe the arrival of the messiah is imminent.
Brutal Attacks
We drove past Turmus Ayya, a village frequently under attack. Bands of settlers, many of them armed, wreak havoc on this town, destroying crops, setting cars and houses ablaze, and damaging agricultural machinery. The settlers, particularly those in remote outposts, view Palestinians with hatred and contempt.
International Law and West Bank Settlements
All Israeli settlements in the West Bank are illegal according to international law. Many of these settlers are American Israelis, and ironically, many American Palestinians reside in Turmus Ayya. In the United States, these two groups might be neighbors and friends, but here in the West Bank, the settlers are focused on either driving out or killing the Palestinians and seizing their land.
The Violent Settlement of Yitzhar
We eventually approached Yitzhar, a particularly violent settlement known for its motto "expel or kill". This motto has been spray-painted on homes and walls in Palestinian villages. A settler website even features a photo of a flag with Rabbi Schneerson's emblem above a military outpost in Yitzhar. The caption underneath states that the flag is there to remind "the residents of the Arab villages of their true destiny - to be slaves to the children of Israel".
The Subtle Start of the Outposts
A fellow passenger pointed out two white caravans parked at the top of a hill. According to him, they weren't there the previous week. These caravans signal the start of a new outpost, which eventually leads to the destruction of Palestinian homes and livelihoods. These tiny unregistered outposts are sprouting up all over the West Bank.
The Settlers' Power
Today, settlers enjoy almost complete immunity from the law and can rely on military support if Palestinians resist. They descend from their hilltops and do as they please. The Palestinians are subjected to a ruthless campaign of organized ethnic cleansing.
Enduring Resistance
Despite the harsh conditions, the spirit of resistance remains among the Palestinians. I witnessed this resilience when I left Nablus to visit friends in the nearby village of Burqa. This ancient community is deeply connected to the land surrounding it. But looming above Burqa is Homesh, a radical settlement with a complex history. Settlers from Homesh come down to Burqa several times a week to terrorize the villagers. They steal cars, sheep, and agricultural equipment - a clear sign of the ongoing struggles faced by the Palestinians in the West Bank.
The trip from Ramallah to Nablus in the occupied West Bank used to be a quick one-hour drive. Now, due to Israeli checkpoints, it can take up to half a day. One Friday morning, I found myself on a bus with students and young families, all heading to visit relatives for the weekend.
Highway 60: A Route of Discontent
We took a left turn onto Highway 60, which is a critical route that connects Hebron in the south to Jenin and Nazareth in the north. In the past, this highway was known as the "route of thieves". Today, the thieves are Israeli settlers who have claimed the land as their own. If Palestine were to become an independent state, Highway 60 would be a vital piece of national infrastructure. But now, every hundred meters or so, there is an Israeli flag.
The Rabbi's Followers
Occasionally, posters depicting a rabbi in a black coat and hat appear next to the flags. Rabbi Menachem Mendel Schneerson passed away three decades ago, but his supporters, many of whom are settlers, believe the historical land of Israel belongs to the Jews. They have placed his emblem, a blue crown against a yellow background atop a Hebrew word meaning "messiah", in Palestinian villages and at intersections. These followers firmly believe the arrival of the messiah is imminent.
Brutal Attacks
We drove past Turmus Ayya, a village frequently under attack. Bands of settlers, many of them armed, wreak havoc on this town, destroying crops, setting cars and houses ablaze, and damaging agricultural machinery. The settlers, particularly those in remote outposts, view Palestinians with hatred and contempt.
International Law and West Bank Settlements
All Israeli settlements in the West Bank are illegal according to international law. Many of these settlers are American Israelis, and ironically, many American Palestinians reside in Turmus Ayya. In the United States, these two groups might be neighbors and friends, but here in the West Bank, the settlers are focused on either driving out or killing the Palestinians and seizing their land.
The Violent Settlement of Yitzhar
We eventually approached Yitzhar, a particularly violent settlement known for its motto "expel or kill". This motto has been spray-painted on homes and walls in Palestinian villages. A settler website even features a photo of a flag with Rabbi Schneerson's emblem above a military outpost in Yitzhar. The caption underneath states that the flag is there to remind "the residents of the Arab villages of their true destiny - to be slaves to the children of Israel".
The Subtle Start of the Outposts
A fellow passenger pointed out two white caravans parked at the top of a hill. According to him, they weren't there the previous week. These caravans signal the start of a new outpost, which eventually leads to the destruction of Palestinian homes and livelihoods. These tiny unregistered outposts are sprouting up all over the West Bank.
The Settlers' Power
Today, settlers enjoy almost complete immunity from the law and can rely on military support if Palestinians resist. They descend from their hilltops and do as they please. The Palestinians are subjected to a ruthless campaign of organized ethnic cleansing.
Enduring Resistance
Despite the harsh conditions, the spirit of resistance remains among the Palestinians. I witnessed this resilience when I left Nablus to visit friends in the nearby village of Burqa. This ancient community is deeply connected to the land surrounding it. But looming above Burqa is Homesh, a radical settlement with a complex history. Settlers from Homesh come down to Burqa several times a week to terrorize the villagers. They steal cars, sheep, and agricultural equipment - a clear sign of the ongoing struggles faced by the Palestinians in the West Bank.